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When assembling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred venues. But, tucked near the top among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” says a family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest restaurant earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary achievement.